Vista Ultimate 64 bit & MT4

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'Gday Amigos


Anyone know if MT4 has a problem with Vista Ultimate 64 bit? Or anyone

happy using MT4 on Vista 64 bit ?


Thanks alot. M

 
XP64 works ok.
 
phy:
XP64 works ok.

further to MT4 thread topic

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Hiya All... could really do with some inputs here (phy - I know ya have a killer system that you built) and assume many others too!

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Reaching the official brain dead phase of 65yrs my great sons have given me the amazing chance for intel i5-2500k and win-7 and 16GB min

but I am very concerned about implications of it all and seriously do not wanna spend any time messing about with MT4 having wobblies on above h/w and s/w environment!

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1. can cpu's 64-bit be utilised ?

2. can 64-bit win-7 (professional - allowing 192GB max) be utilised ?

3. WHY? should I use 64-bit win-7 ?

4. I know nowt about 64-bit OS'es regards realistic reasons for having.

eg, will legacy/old s/w work on 64-bit win-7 OR even 32-bit win-7 for that matter. (have heard something about XP compatability mode???)

man... this is just waaaaay too much for me to get head around. Almost seems mixed blessing having such generous kiddywinks offering the 'old man' some modern kit! - :)

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ALL you people having 'modern' h/w, s/w platforms PLEASE comment as I'm totally in dark about all this AND not wanna make dumb move since MT4 'is' what I use 24/7

About 13yrs me + MT4 (I think...) and as you all know, this CT+MT can be and still is at times, a massive learning curve and also massive headache sometimes too!!! This not just about MQL syntax which is a doddle, but the whole .ru platform that we use. Nevertheless, I love it dearly :)

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NOTE: does MT5 (I know even less about it!) cause concerns about all of above ?

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confused.com me I am... ;/

 

Re: MT4 and 64 bit CPUs & OS. My 64 bit quad core is down and has been for a while. The RAID controller never worked right and I'm finally getting it fixed/replaced. But it seems to me that I did have MT4 running just fine with both Vista 64 and Win7 x 64. When I get it back up and running, I'll post the info here.

I have a 32 bit dual core 2.8GHz CPU MoBo with 4 GB SDRAM. As mentioned above, I also have a 64 bit quad core 2.2GHz with 8GB SDRAM. Though the clock is slower on the Quad, I figured that twice the CPUs would make it faster than the dual core. But I was disappointed. Until I put a 64 bit OS onto it. Now THAT made a BIG difference. It was severely limiting it with the 32 bit OS.

Computers need to have 'balanced' configurations. This includes both H/W and S/W. Having just one aspect that is much 'faster' than the rest won't likely make the system much faster. But putting one functional block that is significantly slower than the rest can really slow the whole system down. If you have a 15 year old computer, it will run a lot better with Win 98 or even 95 than with Vista or even XP. These would overload it very badly and it would perform MUCH worse, perhaps even to the point of being non functional than with the old. smaller OS that is what the H/W & system can handle.

RAM is still the best 'bang for your buck': it can give your more performance increase and stability for the money than anything else.

Your much newer and more powerful computer will allow you to trade much better in real time. It won't bog down and get overloaded anywhere near as much as your older less powerful one. You can do a lot more multitasking with it: run many more instances of MT4 better and easier and it should be much more stable with what currently overloads your old computer.

If you run into problems: pic up the phone and get your sons to sort it out for you. After all, they are the ones that took your old computer that you were comfortable and confident with away from you and got you this newfangled 'hyper' computer (< 8)

Don't forget about 'cooling'. Heat is a VERY big enemy of electronics. Cooling is a LOT CHEAPER than most computer components!

(1) The fins of the heat sink on the CPU get totally clogged up and blocked with dust quite quickly and impede the critical cooling of the CPU considerably. If you have ever tested a CPU to see if it is working by putting your finger right on the surface of the CPU and turn the computer on. It will burn your finger in seconds! Then the thermal overload should kick in and shut it down before it burns out. Their won't be any uncertainty about this: it doesn't get MAYBE 'just a little bit warmer' it gets VERY hot VERY fast if it is working. This clearly demonstrates just how much heat these are putting out. So much so that their are now liquid CPU cooling systems as the cooling liquid has a MUCH higher thermal density than air. All good: until it leaks )< 8( These CPU heat sink fins usually need cleaning 3 ~ 4 times a year with a vacuum. I use it in both vacuum AND blowing mode. Make sure that you leave the computer plugged into a GROUNDED outlet and shut the power supply off so that the static electricity doesn't build up and zap your components. Hold your finger on the center of the fan so that you don't over rev it from the high volume of air flow over the fan blades.

(2) Do the same with the power supply. An over sized power supply with a larger fan is cheap insurance and system protection and a lot cheaper than what a small, cheap overloaded and overheating power supply that will not stay within tolerances and fry your computer. A word to the wise: estimates place 75% ~ 90% of all computer failures to power supplies Specialized Power supply testers are readily available and will pay for themselves the first time your computer dies to see if your power supply is working properly or if you have other problems. Note that most modern computer power supplies &/or MoBo are 'smart' in that they will cut the power off in case of malfunctions or problems with both the power supply and the MoBo to try and prevent from destroying themselves.

(3) I have coolers on ALL of my hard drives: Heat sinks with fans. Clean them at the same time as the rest. Same considerations.

(4) I put flat black aluminum heat sinks on ALL of the ICs on the Motherboard AND cards. Anything bigger than a couple of mm square. Especially on the voltage regulators. With the very low voltages of modern CPUs & RAM etc, they pull a LOT of current / amperage which causes a LOT of heat. I've had a MoBo fail because the CPU voltage regulator got so hot that it came un-soldered then moved slightly and cooled down and then re-soldered itself back to the MoBo again in the wrong position. These are fairly small and only have a couple of leads on them. They sometimes have largish metal tabs as built in heat sinks. Sometimes these are soldered to the ground traces on the MoBo to help dissipate the heat even more. You can cut these additional soft aluminum heat sinks to fit easily where necessary with wire cutters. Put some silicon heat transfer paste like is used on the CPU on the top of each chip you are going to add heat sinks to. Push down and twist them a bit to make sure that there is full contact between the chip and the heat sink. Use some automotive high temperature RTV silicon sealant and gasket maker and put a couple of small blobs on each side of the each heat sink to hold them in place. Let these dry for 24 hours.

(5) I now use dedicated RAM coolers as well that have 3 small fans constantly blowing air over the cooling fins of the RAM.

(6) I put a couple of cooling fans on the outside of the case constantly blowing cool air over the MoBo, CPU, RAM and cards. Control where the air escapes the case to get the best air flow for cooling. If you aren't going to do this, consider leaving the covers off of the case to allow for maximum air cooling. It gets dust in it with or without the covers on it.

(7) Most modern MoBo have cooling fan control and adjustments. Usually in the BIOS. Adjust these for maximum cooling

(8) A lot of cooling fans have a brass sleeve bushing rather than ball or roller bearings. These eventually dry up and start to bind and seize up and will burn out the windings if left long enough running slowly or stalled. You can usually hear when they are starting to have problems. If you catch these early enough, you can disassemble, clean and re-lubricate them before they burn out. Take the sticky label (partially) off to expose the shaft and bushing Their is a small flat split plastic washer in a groove on the fan shaft that holds it in place. Carefully remove this with small, sharp pointed hobby knife: Exacto etc. by putting the blade carefully into the split and pry one end out of the groove and work it around till it is off. Watch as these tend to 'pop off' and it is easy to lose them. Take a small piece of tissue paper and a WOODEN toothpick and push the tissue through the pushing to clean it. Repeat until clean. Once cleaned, take another piece with clean LIGHT oil on it and push this through. Do not use anything hard such as metal to do this as you will damage the soft brass bushing and ruin it. Wipe the shaft and everything else clean. Blow the lint out of everything with your breath. Lubricate the shaft & bushing LIGHTLY with some very light oil: 3 in 1, sewing machine oil. etc. I just use 10W motor oil. Reassemble it. While it is running, put another drop or two of oil in the recess where the washer holds the fan on on the shaft. Carefully push the fan up and down a little bit by putting your finger on the CENTER of the turning fan so that the oil works down into the bushing. Wipe all of the excess oil off of the area that covers the bushing recess. Use some rubbing alcohol if you need to to get it properly clean so that the cover will stick properly Try not to get any lint into the shaft & oil. If the original sticker that covers this is no good from getting oil etc on it, carefully cut and fit a piece of duct tape to cover it. Presto: good for another year or two (< 8)

Again: CLEAN the DUST out of ALL of these a COUPLE OF TIMES A YEAR !!!


 

@Doug: Your [very] detailed post appreciated a lot. Have taken note: Enough psu power and much cooling = happy camper :)

The relube of brass bushing is interesting - cannot always source a fan fast enough!

Regarding dust - message received. I'd imagine whatever case quality one had, this is an issue. I'll make Qlock alarm entries to remember to do some dust busting ;)

Ok, makes sense about the 64-bit OS on this modern h/w. Anyway, with >4GB ram I'll no choice but to use Win 7 pro. You indicate that MT4 ok and I'd imagine that would be much shouting all over if was not. I am looking on web for snippets regards all this. I'm wondering if MT4 can take advantage of >4GB? I somehow doubt it. But on the +ve side, this PC will be absolutely supersonic. I'm hoping to get a 64GB ssd for install disk/hdc which should further increase overall performance. Must learn more about best ways to use this ssd. 64GB is loads (in my eyes) but not wanna use it unwisely...


Will look forewards to your observations when Quad core lives again...

RAID, that looks interesting, I must get to grips with it. My experience stopped with the fault tolerant realm that was Tandem NonStop - which amongst many other goodies had mirrored drives - ahhh, how I loved the Guardian OS + TAL + well... all of them days gone by!


More to take in on your post... thanx again.

 

Quick note here: Running on a 2008 R2 64 bit - works fine AS LONG AS you're not working will DLLs - I can tell you that for the past couple of weeks we've been trying to stabilize the MT4 running with an x86-compiled DLL, but till now to no avail.

We keep getting AccessViolationException which come from the internals of .Net - and this is usually an indication for a 32/64 bit mixup

If anyone has any input on tthis - I'll be happy to hear.

-roy

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